Day 7: Breithorn Traverse
Day 7: Breithorn Traverse |
||
| On the last days we split into 2 groups. Paul and Tom tackled the Breithorn traverse with Jeff and Matt guiding. They were treated to some spectacular weather and outstanding ridge climbing. Apparently some other party was not having such a good day and had to be evacuated by helicopter from the ridge. | ||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Day 7: Approach to Arbenbiwak |
Howie and I spent the day hiking in to the Arbenbiwak Hut. The approach had an mind boggling array of ladders, chains and assorted hardware. The hut itself was very comfortable and fully outfitted with stoves and dinnerware. (There is a small self-service fee for the use of the hut with discount for AAC members.) That evening we enjoyed a magnificent view of the North Face of the Matternhorn as the sun set. It's worth the trip to this hut for that reason alone! (To reach this hut I would say you either need to be totally comfortable on class 3/4 climbing and bring a rope just in case. I could imagine that descending this way could be dicey if the rock was wet etc.) | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Day 8: Ober Gabelhorn (4063m) |
As a finale, Howie and I traversed from Arbenbiwak to the Summit of the Ober Gabelhorn (4063m) and then down the NNE ridge and over the Wellenkuppe (3903m). The ascent was challenging and enjoyable with a bit of snow climbing and lots of mixed climbing with crampons on. This style of climbing definately pushed the limits of my abilities as I had definately done nothing comparable previously. When we summitted I had a sneaking suspicion that the easy part was now over. Conditions decending the Ober Gabelhorn were very sketchy. Not enough firm snow to give confidence downcliming. Just enough unconsolidated snow to hide decent holds and obscure many of the potential rappel anchors. Howie did a masterful job of puzzling out our safe decent which seemed to go on endlessly. It was about here where I truely learned appreciation for an experienced guide! (Unfortunately, I was too concerned about making it down before dark to consider digging my camera out from the depths of my pack :-) |
|
|
|
|
Day 8: Fun in the Gorge |
While Howie and I were having our fun. The rest of the crew enjoyed the thrills of the Gorner Gorge. (I believe you need to be accompanied by a guide to decend this course.) | |
|
|
|
So long Zermatt... |
||
|
||