Not heeding these wise words of Ice-T, some members of the Ice family,
Ron Karpel (Hard-Ice), Maxym Runov (Ice-Cube), Bob Suzuki (Stoic-Ice),
Rick Booth (Rock-n-Ice), Scott Kreider (Vanilla-Ice) and
Arun Mahajan (Ice-Karim), met up at the Carson Pass Sno-Park on the
morning of Sunday, the 7th of April, 2002, loaded to the gills with
an assortment of ice climbing and other general climbing gear like
tools, slings, harnesses, ropes and pickets. This was to show the
casual observer that these Soggy Bottom Boys were serious climbers or
had done serious shopping at the last climbing sale at Outlet.Com.
The objective was to climb the striking Crescent Moon Couloir on
Round Top and to provide levity with background choral
blue-ice grass musical accompaniment.
Starting at 10am and struggling mightily to keep up with Ice Cube
and Stoic Ice, the rest of us icicles made it to the base of the
couloir at the top of a flattish section, above Lake Winnemucca,
by 12 pm. Hard-Ice wisely suggested that we put on harnesses as
the steep couloir above would make it harder to do so at a later
point. Meanwhile, Ice-Cube, melting with impatience, waited for
us and we all started going up, unroped. The snow layer was crusty
but we dug into it with firm steps, benefitting no doubt from the
previous trail breaking of Ice Cube who had bolted ahead. There is
a couloir on the left, also clearly visible from the road, that is
at a gentler angle but we wanted to try the actual Crescent Moon
couloir which is on the right. The angle progressively increased
but the snow conditions were perfect and in the deep snow, our ice
axes were sinking to the hilt and our feet to the knees but we
were getting good purchase. After a short break at the point where
the Crescent Moon Couloir showed another fork, we decided to go on,
what appeared to be, the steeper, right branch. This time, in
an attempt to give Ice-cube some rest from trail breaking, Ice-Karim
decided to go up first and made progress by doing short switch backs.
Hard-Ice and Rock-n-ice thought that the angle was 45-degrees here.
Looking back down, we were rewarded with a truly spectacular sight
of the steep couloir below our feet with a train of climbers coming up
and ringed with the snow covered hills and peaks of the Carson
Wilderness. At this point, wanting to go up faster, Ice-Cube asked to
lead and went almost straight up to a rock head wall. Here the angle
was the steepest and he stayed in the furrow between the wall and the
main snow slope and in a few moments, was at the top of the notch
between the main summit (left) and the surrogate summit (right).
We all came up behind, being extra careful here, as the axes sank only
till mid-shaft before hitting rock and there were a couple of spots
where we had to face in and make a few moves with our boot-toe tips
which sank in enough but lesser than that in the couloir below.
Definitely a no-fall zone and we were clearly woken up, daylight
savings
or not! It had taken us an hour and half to get to this point, after
having started off for the couloir proper, at 12pm.
The short wall to be climbed en-route to the summit hump was
surprisingly devoid of snow and we all had to make a few interesting
class-4/5 moves to get to the actual summit. We signed into one of
the multiple summit registers and then made our way to the surrogate
summit and we were again surprised at the lack of snow as we made our
way over the scree and loose stuff to descend via the snowy slopes
back to the point where we had left our snow shoes. In an hour or so
after that, we were back to the cars at about 4.30 pm.
The snow conditions were perfect this day for a short high angle couloir climb that is the Crescent Moon Couloir. Any higher angle or any worse conditions, we would have had to use a rope and set protection, but this day and with our level of experience, we all felt comfortable without a rope.
It was Julius Caesar, who, after doing a particularly nice couloir climb with his friends, said, "I came, I thaw, I conquered". While historians will debate this, we should have listened to what Ice-T said and left that ice tool home.
- Arun Mahajan and the Ice family of the Soggy Bottom Boys.